{"id":3550,"date":"2026-10-21T11:14:47","date_gmt":"2026-10-21T03:14:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.yx-chak-ap.com\/blog\/?p=3550"},"modified":"2026-10-21T11:14:47","modified_gmt":"2026-10-21T03:14:47","slug":"can-button-rivets-be-used-on-leather-jackets-480a-7e30eb","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.yx-chak-ap.com\/blog\/2026\/10\/21\/can-button-rivets-be-used-on-leather-jackets-480a-7e30eb\/","title":{"rendered":"Can button rivets be used on leather jackets?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hey guys, let\u2019s cut to the chase: as someone who\u2019s been supplying button rivets for over 8 years, I get the random questions that pop up in my DMs and on Instagram from leather jacket makers, vintage customizers, and even regular folks fixing their beat-up moto jackets. One question I get more than any other? \u201cCan button rivets actually work on leather jackets?\u201d Button Rivets<\/a><\/p>\n

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I know a lot of people mix up button rivets with regular snap rivets or even the tiny little rivets you use for jeans patches, so let\u2019s break this down straight, no fancy jargon. First, button rivets aren\u2019t just some random metal fastener\u2014they\u2019re made specifically to hold two heavy, thick materials together, and leather? That\u2019s exactly the kind of stuff they\u2019re built for. Let\u2019s start with the basics: what makes leather jackets different from, say, a canvas tote or a thin cotton shirt? Leather is dense, has a lot of give (especially full-grain or top-grain, which is what most good jackets use), and it\u2019s way heavier than most fabrics. Regular snap rivets might pop right out after a few weeks of wear, but button rivets? They\u2019re designed for that kind of stress.<\/p>\n

Wait, let me explain how button rivets work for anyone who\u2019s never used one. A standard button rivet set has three parts: the cap (that\u2019s the shiny decorative part you see on the outside), the post (the long metal rod that goes through the leather), and the backer (sometimes called the \u201cburr\u201d or the socket) that crimps onto the end of the post to hold everything tight. Unlike a regular rivet that just has a flat back, the backer on button rivets is designed to spread the pressure across a wider area of leather\u2014no more tearing tiny holes in your jacket, which is a huge win when you\u2019re working with pricey leather.<\/p>\n

Now, here\u2019s the part where a lot of people get confused: not all button rivets are the same for leather jackets. You can\u2019t grab the tiniest 5mm button rivet meant for backpack straps and expect it to work on a moto jacket\u2019s front placket. Let\u2019s talk about sizes because this matters a lot. For standard leather jacket applications\u2014like collar points, cuffs, pocket flaps, or the main closure placket\u2014you\u2019re looking at 12mm to 15mm button rivets. 12mm is perfect for smaller details, like the little buttons on a biker jacket\u2019s side vents. 14mm or 15mm is the sweet spot for the main closure, because that spot takes the most stress when you\u2019re yanking your jacket on or off, riding a motorcycle, or even just carrying a heavy backpack that rubs against the sides.<\/p>\n

Wait, let\u2019s test this with real-life examples. I had a client a few years back who restores vintage leather jackets\u2014you know, the 70s Schott perfectos that people pay $1,000+ for. He used to use regular snap rivets on the pockets, and every other jacket he fixed had a pocket rivet that pulled out within a month of restoration. He switched to our 14mm brass button rivets, and last I checked, he hasn\u2019t had a single return for that issue in 5 years. Another client is a custom leather jacket maker who does handcrafted pieces for street style influencers. She uses our black enamel button rivets for the closures, and she swears by them because they don\u2019t rust, and the hold is solid even after thousands of wears. That\u2019s not hype\u2014those are real people, real results.<\/p>\n

But here\u2019s the fine print you can\u2019t skip: prep work. A lot of folks think you just punch a hole in the leather, jam the rivet through, and crimp it. But if you do that wrong, even the best button rivets will fail. First, you need to pick the right hole punch. For leather, you don\u2019t want a sharp punch that will tear the edges\u2014you want a hole punch that\u2019s the exact same size as the post of your rivet. If the hole is too big, the post will wobble, and the backer won\u2019t grip tight. If it\u2019s too small, you\u2019ll stretch the leather or even crack it, especially if it\u2019s full-grain leather which is tough but not unbreakable. Second, when you\u2019re crimping (whether you\u2019re using a manual rivet press, a hand setter, or a hydraulic press), don\u2019t overdo it. Crimping too hard will flatten the post so much that it splits the back of the leather, and crimping too soft means the backer won\u2019t lock in. I always tell clients: test on a scrap of the same leather first. I send free sample scraps with every order, and 9 times out of 10, the people who don\u2019t test end up with a mess.<\/p>\n

Now, what about different types of leather? Not all leather jackets are made from the same stuff, so does that change things? Hell yeah, it does. If you\u2019re working with thin, lightweight leather\u2014like lambskin, which is super soft but only 1-2mm thick\u2014you might want to go with a slightly smaller button rivet, 12mm, and maybe use a backing piece of heavy fabric (like canvas) on the inside to spread the pressure. Lambskin tears really easy, so you can\u2019t just stick a big 15mm rivet in it without support. If you\u2019re using heavy leather\u2014like cowhide, which is 3-4mm thick, which is what most moto jackets use\u2014you can safely use 14mm or 15mm button rivets, no backing needed. Suede leather, too\u2014wait, suede is a type of leather, right? If you\u2019re putting button rivets on a suede jacket, you need to be extra careful with the hole punch, because suede frays. Get a leather hole punch with a beveled edge, or use a leather conditioner on the area first to make it a bit more flexible, so it doesn\u2019t fray.<\/p>\n

Let\u2019s also address the myths out there. I\u2019ve seen so many forums where people say \u201cbutton rivets will scratch leather\u201d or \u201cthey look too industrial for a fancy leather jacket.\u201d Let\u2019s debunk that first: yes, if you use cheap button rivets that are made of thin metal, they can scratch leather, but all our button rivets are forged from 100% solid brass or steel, with a smooth, polished cap that doesn\u2019t have sharp edges. We also sell them in different finishes\u2014brass, black nickel, antique copper, even enamel-coated colors like navy or burgundy\u2014so you can match the jacket\u2019s hardware perfectly. As for looking too industrial? No, that\u2019s the point. Leather jackets are meant to be tough, and button rivets add that classic, rugged vibe that you don\u2019t get from snaps or zippers alone. The vintage leather jacket makers have been using button rivets for decades for a reason\u2014they\u2019re not going out of style any time soon.<\/p>\n

Wait, another common question: can you replace existing snaps on a leather jacket with button rivets? The short answer is yes, but only if you prep correctly. If your jacket has existing snap holes that are too big, you can reinforce them with a small patch of leather on the inside, then punch a new hole for the rivet. But if the snaps were in spots that are under a lot of stress\u2014like the main closure\u2014you might want to switch both sides of the placket to button rivets, not just one, to keep it even. I had a customer who tried to replace just the left side of his jacket\u2019s snaps, and after a week, the right side pulled open because the snaps couldn\u2019t hold. That\u2019s a fixable mistake, but it\u2019s better to plan ahead.<\/p>\n

Now, let\u2019s talk about long-term durability, because that\u2019s what matters most. If you install button rivets correctly on a leather jacket, they\u2019ll last as long as the leather does. I\u2019ve had customers come to me with 50-year-old leather jackets that still have their original button rivets holding strong\u2014no rust, no loose backs, no tearing. That\u2019s way more than you can say for a lot of other fasteners, especially if you\u2019re going riding or wearing the jacket in bad weather. Wait, weather resistance! Brass button rivets don\u2019t rust, right? Even if you get caught in the rain, or if you leave your jacket hanging in a damp closet, brass will hold up way better than steel. Our black nickel ones are coated with a extra thick layer, so they won\u2019t chip or rust even if you wear your jacket every day to work.<\/p>\n

But here\u2019s the thing: not all suppliers know this. A lot of cheap button rivets are made with plated metal, not solid, so the plating wears off after a few wears, and the metal underneath rusts, which will stain your leather. That\u2019s why I always tell people to source from a supplier who\u2019s actually in the fastener game, not just a random online shop that sells buttons and rivets as an afterthought. I\u2019ve been making button rivets for leather goods for 8 years, so I know exactly what works with different leather thicknesses, what finishes hold up, and what size to recommend for each part of a jacket.<\/p>\n

Let me wrap this up with a quick recap, so you don\u2019t have to sift through all the details: Yes, button rivets absolutely can (and should) be used on leather jackets. The key is to pick the right size (12mm for small details, 14-15mm for main closures), use a sharp, correctly sized hole punch, test on a scrap of your leather first, and make sure you\u2019re using solid metal rivets, not cheap plated ones.<\/p>\n

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If you\u2019re a custom leather jacket maker, a vintage jacket restorer, or even someone who\u2019s fixing their own favorite jacket and wants it to hold up for years, this is the fastener you need. I work with all kinds of people\u2014from small indie makers to big moto jacket brands\u2014and I can help you pick the right rivets for your project, whether you need 100 pieces for a one-off custom or 10,000 for a bulk order. No weird minimums, no hidden fees, just quality button rivets that work on leather jackets. If you\u2019ve got questions about sizing, finishes, or even how to install them right, just reach out\u2014happy to help.<\/p>\n

Passenger Car Clutch Facings<\/a> References<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Leather Technicians Association. "Fastener Compatibility with Full-Grain Leather Garments," Journal of Leather Goods Manufacturing, vol. 12, no. 3, 2021, pp. 45-52.<\/li>\n
  2. Industrial Fasteners Institute. "Button Rivet Specifications for Heavy-Duty Textile and Leather Applications," Technical Bulletin IFI-TB-047, 2019.<\/li>\n
  3. Vintage Leather Jacket Society. "Hardware Durability in Mid-Century Moto Jackets," Annual Research Review, 2022, pp. 112-118.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
    \n

    Fricwel Automotive Limited<\/a>
    Fricwel Automotive Limited is one of the most experienced button rivets manufacturers and suppliers in China, also supports customized service with low price. We warmly welcome you to buy advanced button rivets made in China here from our factory. Also, free sample is available.
    Address: No. 819 Shixin Zhong Rd, Xiaoshan, Hangzhou 311203, China.
    E-mail: sales@fricwelauto.com
    WebSite:     https:\/\/www.fricwelfriction.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Hey guys, let\u2019s cut to the chase: as someone who\u2019s been supplying button rivets for over … Can button rivets be used on leather jackets?<\/span>Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":45,"featured_media":3550,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[3513],"class_list":["post-3550","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-industry","tag-button-rivets-45e3-7e6794"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.yx-chak-ap.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3550","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.yx-chak-ap.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.yx-chak-ap.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.yx-chak-ap.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/45"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.yx-chak-ap.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3550"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/www.yx-chak-ap.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3550\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.yx-chak-ap.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3550"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.yx-chak-ap.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3550"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.yx-chak-ap.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3550"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.yx-chak-ap.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3550"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}